MORIONES – from the eyes of an outsider

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Morion Parade in Mogpog
Marinduque – the lenten capital of the Philippines is renowned for a weeklong celebration of the Holy Week with its unique rites and rituals dotting the beautiful island province. Mogpog, the town where the festival started, holds the skilled Morion mask makers and, I think, has the most traditional and solemn way of observing the festive occasion.

 

Now, what do I understand with Moriones Festival before my intended visit?

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Eye lash detail of a Morion mask in Mogpog

Growing up in another lenten “Mecca” in the Philippines, Province of Pampanga, where the gory tradition of flagellating wounded backs and carrying cross dot the streets, seeing Moriones Festival from the news and digital media seems to be a colorful and festive occasion. At first thought, it was a grand fashion event depicting Roman soldiers with varying degrees of creativity. It was also a big question for me why Marinduque is the Lenten Capital of the Philippines, where Pampanga has the intense and bloody ways of celebrating it, attracting local and international media to capture the crucifixion of penitents in different sites.

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Gasan’s own version of flagellants

 

What have I learned about the Moriones Festival?

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Morions of Boac

Upon arriving in the capital town of Boac of dreary long night commute, loud music of marching band wakened me from a slumber. Jumping out of the bed and snatching my camera, I hurried on a semi-crowded street looking for the source of the music. After few turns within the tight labyrinth of roads, there I the saw the first time in my life, the masked men parading the streets depicting the Roman soldiers during the time of Christ. First few seconds, I felt a bit fear because of the comical frozen angry expressions with seemingly stares from my angle. There were two files and hurried at the middle to have a good angle of the Morions. After the parade, I let the “autopilot” in me ply the town of Boac. What I saw are more Morion penitents scattered with amazingly and strikingly beautiful details adorning their suits. Initially, called them as costumes, but later changed my mind about it.

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Morions of Gasan, which has metallic accents and details

Among many non-locals, such rite is quite outrageous and bizarre when the Lenten season centers on the passion of the Christ. Why would these men and women, young and aged, would don such suit and parade on the streets for a show? There comes the unproven story of the Roman Soldier, Longinus, who was allegedly the first Christian after the death of Christ. He was one-eye blinded and miraculously healed after he speared Christ on the cross and blood flowed onto his eyes. Longinus is able to the power of the Messiah and starting to share the word. Since he was a high ranking official in the Roman army, the Roman government would want him silent about it, until such time, Longinus is beheaded of the spreading the good news. This story is where the festival anchors on.

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The actor depicting Roman Soldier Longinus

Speaking with Sir Mel Manalili, of Legion of the Marinduque Morions, one of the three Morion groups in Boac, he explained to us what Moriones Festival is about. Aside from the story of Longinus, being a Morion penitent is like almost a year-round task. The activity of their group does not start and end during the Holy Week but throughout the year. They have values formation and civic activities that they hold in identified barangays that are really in need. Their group already hold a coastal cleanup and activities during the opening of classes.  The Legion of the Marinduque Moriones will be celebrating its first decade of existence this 2018. There are no special events for the group yet, however, they are looking into adding more youngsters into the group.

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Sir Mel with their group’s flag and presenting his own mask

What to expect while observing the Moriones Festival?

  • Please note that all the six municipalities of Marinduque have their observations and Lenten rites. Before arriving on the island, you can check their schedules by searching online. From our experience, we checked on the schedule of events posted in Boac. There are many pages on Facebook you can check on.
  • There are morions parading throughout the street, and they are ready a picture pose.
  • The crowd starts to grow during Maundy Thursday and will peak on Good Friday during the Via Crucis.
  • Local restaurants and eateries close at around 9:00PM or later depending on customers. Usually, they close at around 5:00PM on ordinary days.
  • There are bazaars or trade fairs in each towns showcasing their local delicacies and many souvenir items.
  • There is a food park in Boac that is near the Senakulo stage.

 

What other activities we did during the Good Friday?

In Mogpog, after marveling the traditional Morion parade and having a short discussion with the Municipal Mayor and other councilors, we headed to Barangay Janagdong to meet one of the famous morion mask maker, Sir Dick Malapote. Upon arriving in front of their house, unfortunately, he was still in town. We were able, though, to see the unfinished mask. We are also able to try the suit that morion penitents wear.

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@rrsalamanca trying the blue motif morion suit
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Having a snap with a father and son Morion penitent in Mogpog after the parade

In Boac, we observed the Via Crucis around lunch time, found our way to squeeze ourselves through the crowd and we are able to join our media friends and able to have access to the stage area. Shout to Elpi (@egguillermo) and Vin of Manila Bulletin (@kevintristan.espiritu).

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Via Crucis in Boac
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At the stage area in Boac (RR, June, Jan and JM) Photo credit: @makoi_my_word

In Gasan, we witnessed the Good Friday parade at sunset. We saw the flagellants, the Pupua penitents and a huge crowd.

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Lady penitent with a crown of Pupua leaves during the Good Friday procession in Gasan
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Creative execution of indigenous materials by Sir Andy Peralta (holding the mask) of Barangay Uno in Gasan. The materials are mostly from coconut trees.

 

How to go in Marinduque?

The main entry port is via Dalahican-Balanacan port:

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Balanacan Port in Mogpog, Marinduque

If you are traveling in the peak days, it is recommended to have an early reservation of bus through Biyaheroes website. One way bus ticket cost Php830.00, not inclusive of other charges. The fare is inclusive of the RORO fare. Once at the port area, the bus conductor will signal passengers to alight and prepare for the RORO ride. You have the option to stay on the bus if you wish to travel in the RORO with a lesser crowd. Once in Balanacan port, tell the bus conductor where you will alight. In my case, we left Kamias-QC terminal at around 5:00 PM and arrived in Boac town past 3:00 AM the following day. You might as well arrange your arrival with your accommodation. The straight bus trip from JAC Liner is recommended for travelers who avoid hassles during transfers or families traveling with seniors.

Majority of the locals take the cutting trip. They will commute to Dalahican Port in Lucena City and take another queue to the RORO. Upon arriving in Balanacan port, there are vans and jeepney waiting at the port going to each town, even during wee hours of the night.

Another possible entry is through the Gasan Airport which currently undergoing renovations.

Where did we sleep?

We chose Lucky 7 Pension House in Boac because of its strategic location. Right beside Puregold Boac and the market area. Accommodations in Boac sells faster than pancakes and it is advisable to make months in advance on reservation.

You can contact Mam Betty at 0910 822 2973. Please say Hi to her from Jan of Pampanga.

For Php1,300 room per night, here’s what we had: (price may change without prior notice)

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Spacious AC Room, Private T&B, Personal Toiletries and Towels, Huge Dresser, Huge Cable LED TV, Working Tables, Queen Size Bed and awesome view of the sunrise and Boac Downtown (my travel buddy was still asleep)

 

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View from Room#1 in Lucky 7 Pension House

Improvements needed on their Wifi connection, though.

My favorite restaurant in Boac:

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Cafe Ma’mita Restaurant Facade

Cafe Ma’Mita Restaurant – located beside Boac Cathedral and Boac Hotel, they are my go-to breakfast and lunch restaurant. Their accommodating and fun is an added bonus in the experience. The restaurant has good wifi connection too.

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Cozy interiors of the restaurant (with JM and Makoi)

My favorites are their ‘silogs and the Crispy Manakla.

 

 

 

Marinduque has awesome places to visit too! 

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Map of Marinduque (From Google Maps)

The heart-shaped island has lots the feature. There is a long white sand in Poctoy, town of Torrijos. It boast a long white sand beach and with beach front accommodations. We ate at Mang Ben’s while in Poctoy. Love their fresh Fried Calamares and Pancit. Shout out to Sir Jessie for hosting our lunch, our heartfelt thanks.

How to go to Poctoy Beach: From Boac Jeep Terminal, we took Sta. Cruz bound jeep (about 1.5 hours travel time). Then from Sta. Cruz, take Torrijos bound jeep. Advise the driver that you will alight in Poctoy (about 1 hour travel).

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Eating with JM (@jm.suba) , Makoi (@makoi_my_word) and Sir Jessie (@iamjessieboi) at Mang Ben’s.
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Rocky portion of Poctoy Beach

Tres Reyes Island – these islands features rocky coastline and with limited beach/swimming area. However, despite its limited swimming area, the islands are surrounded with clear waters perfect for snorkeling. Be mindful with the currents to avoid drifting.

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Rocky portion of Gaspar Island

From Boac, take Buenavista bound jeep and advise driver that you will alight at the Gasan port.

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@makoi_my_word taking photo of an adorable child in Gaspar Island

 

Luzon Datum, the Geodetic center of the Philippines is found near Balanacan, Mogpog. From Boac, take a jeepney bound for Balanacan port. Advise the driver you will go to Luzon Datum and they will alight you to the junction leading there. From the junction there, are habal habal drivers ready to bring you there. As of writing, the road near the structure is undergoing construction, hence, the need to charter habal habal or bring your own SUVs that can survive the steep and winding road once near Luzon Datum.

 

 

 

 

Marinduque, the heart of the Philippines, truly is an amazing and peaceful island province that will truly captivate your heart. Thank you to these adventurous souls who made my Marinduque experience unforgettable!

JM Suba, Kevin Tristan Espiritu, Elpi Guillermo, Juniel de Gracia, Ryan Salamanca, Makoi Matutes, SIr Pat Venenoso and his travelling Mom, Sir Jessie Boi!
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